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Eintrag-Details: china guangxi-provinz ende maerz 08

31.05.08

Permalink 11:05:17, Kategorien: Tagebuch, 1030 Wörter   German (DE)

china guangxi-provinz ende maerz 08

Mit dem uebertritt in die naechste provinze, aendert so manches. Natur pur, strassen mit wenig bis gar kein verkehr. Links und rechts alles gruen und ab und an ein kleines dorf. Laechelnde chinesen, spielende kinder , wasserbueffel die den bauern die arbeit auf den feldern erleichtern.
Der einzige nachteil zur vorherigen industrie-provinze ist, dass die strassen nicht mehr flach verlaufen. Die landschaft wird huegelig und unserer erster radlertag in der neuen umgebung wird die reinste berg und tal fahrt. Die erste nacht muessen wir ca. 20km vor unserem gelanten ziel ort kapitulieren und unser zelt aufschlagen. Zusammen mit zwei polnischen radfahrern, die die strecke auch nicht in einem zug geschafft haben. In dieser nacht setzt erstmals regen ein...was wir zu diesem zeitpunkt noch nicht wussten....beides, berge und regen werden uns noch lange zeit begleiten.....
So beginnen wir den neuen tag unter grauem himmel und in extremer feuchtigkeit. Wir radeln mit den polen weiter, jeder in seinem tempo. Die beiden haben ihre radreise erst vor 5 tagen begonnen und sind somit noch nicht so schnell und ausdauernd am pedalieren. Unterwegs setzt heftiger regen ein und wir beschliessen, uns in der naechsten stadt fuer die nacht niederzulassen. Zelt und ausruestung zu trocknen und morgen mit neuem elan weiter zu radeln. Die polen ziehen mit und wir verbringen einen gemuetlichen abend zusammen. Am morgen danach wollten sie frueher raus um die 80 km bis in die naechste stadt zu schaffen...wie sich heraus stellte waren wir frueher dran und da wir in unterschiedlichem tempo fahren, haben wir sie bis zum heutigen tag nicht mehr gesehen....wir wuenschen den beiden viel spass am fahren und moege die abenteuerlust sie noch lange begleiten.

Mit jedem radfahr tag veraendert sich die umgebung. Aus den grossen, gruenen bergen und huegel, die uns so manchen schweisstropfen gekostet haben, formen sich langsam, die fuer china so typischen karstberg formationen.......wie pilze schiessen diese kegel aus den flachen reisfelder.

Wir haben diese gegend um yangshou und guillin schon auf unserer ersten china reise vor sechs jahren, besucht. Nach wie vor verzaubert diese landschaft die sinne.....man kann sich lebhaft vorstellen, dass hier frueher wunderschoene chinesische drachen in den hoelen hausten und feuerspeihend ueber die gipfel der karst-riesen flogen. Gefolgt von zauberern mit langen weissen baerten....hier hat wohl so mancher geschichten- erzaehler seine inspiration geholt.
Heute teilt man sich den platz mit horden von touristen....mehrheitlich chinesische. Das ist im gegensatz zu vor sechs jahren, eine gewalltige veraenderung im landschafts-bild.

Wir treffen hier zufaellig, die „velocos“, moni und robi wieder. Unsere wege haben sich erstmals auf unserer letzten reise im iran, pakistan und indien gekreutzt. Dank unserem szenen-wechsel nach asien, kamen wir nun erneut in den genuss ihrer gesllschaft. Die beiden sind schon seit ueber vier jahren mit den raedern unterwegs und haben so einiges an erfahrung gesammelt....
Mitunter muessen wir hier bei auch erwaehnen, dass sie nicht ganz unschuldig an unserer kleinen radreise sind. Sie haben bei unserer ersten begegnung vor drei jahren quasi den funken in uns gezuendet und uns „gluschtig“ gemacht, fuer diese art zu reisen. Wir verbringen mehr als eine woche zusammen, es gibt einiges zu erzaehlen und wir lassen so manchen regentag in dieser gemuetlichen runde verstreichen.
Es war eine wunderschoenes wiedersehen, wir haben die zeit mit ihnen sehr genossen!
Wo sich unserer wege das naechste mal kreuzen, steht in den sternen......eins ist jedoch sicher, wir werden uns freuen!

In guilin machen wir zum ersten mal vom sogenannten „ coutchsurfing“ prinzip gebrauch. Jeder und jede die in seiner wohnung ein freies plaetzchen zur verfuegung hat, kann dies auf einer speziellen seite im internet anmelden. Alle andern die ab und an froh ueber eine uebernachtungsmoeglichkeit, ein abendessen oder auch nur eine stadtfuehrung sind, melden sich ebenfalls. So ist bereits ein ganzes netz von privaten entstanden, die kostenlos ein bett oder andere dienste zur verfuegung stellen und dies weltweit. Eine super sache, basierend auf geben und nehmen. Denn jeder der anbietet, kann wenn er unterwegs ist, davon provitieren.
Fuer alle die sich einmal etwas genauer darueber informieren moechten oder sich selbst daran beteiligen wollen, unter www.coutchsurfing.com erfaehrt man mehr.

Unser gastgeber war joe, ein kanadier, in unserem alter, der in guilin englisch unterricht. Joe war so grosszuegig, dass er die coutch uebernahm, waehrend wir in seinem zimmer im bett schlafen konnten. In seiner freien zeit hat er uns die stadt gezeigt. Wir haben uns puddelwohl gefuehlt mit ihm und in seinem vier waenden. Zu geniesen gab es den luxus und das gefuehl, einer „eigenen“ wohnung mit kueche, waschmaschine, badezimmer, stube, zimmer, balkon.....
Ein gefuehl, wonach man sich manchmal sehnt, wenn man laengere zeit weg von zuhause ist.
Joe hat uns an seinem zuhause teil haben lassen. Eine schoene erfahrung, wir koennen es jedem reisenden waermstens empfehlen!

Nach einigen tagen haeuslichkeit.....folgen wir dem ruf der strasse wieder, fuehren unser nomaden dasein weiter. Richtung nord-west, unsere mission.....nach einem easy fahrtag im flachen, wird es auch schon wieder bergig......ein tag sonnenscheihn und unzaehlige graue regentage bilden die folge.
Dies wird entschaedigt mit schmucken doerfern und spannenden bewohnern. Wir befinden uns nun in einem gebiet das von den sogennanten minoritaen chinas bewohnt und bewirtschaftet wird. Hier in den huegeln der guangxi provinze sind es vorallem die „dong“ welche die merheit bilden.
Die dong’s sind bekannt fuer ihre baukunst. Ganze haeuser, tuerme und wundervolle bruecken werden aus holz zusammen gefuegt ohne auch nur einen einzigen nagel zu gebrauchen.
In china sind 55 verschiedene gruppen ethnischer minderheiten beheimatet. Viele von ihnen finden in den abgelgenen huegel regionen des suedwestens ihr zuhause. Da sie die minderheit der bevoekerung ausmachen und ihr vorkommen ruecklaeufig ist, sind sie von der ein-kind-politik chinas ausgeschlossen. Diese gilt nur fuer die zu explodierend drohende masse der han-chinesen, welche die 56giste bevoelkerungs gruppe ist und mit 91.9% die absolute merheit bilded.
Unsere route durch suedwest- china wird uns immer wieder in minoritaeten gebiet fuehren. Welche eine spannende und farbige abwechslung zum etwas eintoenigen „han-chinesen“ alltag bietet.
Unterscheidet sich doch jede gruppe nur schon rein aeusserlich durch spezielle kleidung oder ausgefallenen haarschmuck. Verschiedenen baustile und sprachliche diferenzen kommen hinzue.Typische feste und rituale runden das ganze programm ab und machen jede begegnung mit ihnen zu einem unverwechselbaren erlebniss.

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